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point like the nib of a pen. Above this nib
is a compact ball of hair which holds the
liquid dye used as ink. In time, the
Srikalahasti tradition incorporated
perforated stencils and still later, hand
carved wooden blocks used for patterns.
In the Masulipatinam tradition, the
outlines and main features of all the
designs are printed with hand-carved
blocks and only the details are painted by
hand. Old traditional blocks, many with
Persian motifs, have been used for many
years.
The dyes used in Kalamkari are colors
extracted from plants, roots, leaves and
similar vegetable matter, combined with
minerals like iron, and mordants like alum.
These colors are fast, but are not harsh
and gaudy, and they acquire a certain
clarity wash by wash. Harsh chemicals are
never used, and the traditional methods
followed for bleaching and printing impart
a mellow beauty and durability to the
fabric which is characteristic of Kalamkari. |
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Kalamkari work is a time-consuming
process, involving as many as fifteen steps.
This includes bleaching, the application of
myrobalam, painting and printing, washing,
dyeing, bleaching, starching, waxing, indigo
vat dyeing, wax removing, bleaching,
starching, the application of yellow and
green colors, the application of alum and
bleaching. Sunlight is the main bleaching
agent. Not being photo-sensitive like
chemical dyes, vegetable dye printed
fabrics do not fade in unsightly patches,
even with repeated washing and exposure
to sunlight. |
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