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point like the nib of a pen. Above this nib is a compact ball of hair which holds the liquid dye used as ink. In time, the Srikalahasti tradition incorporated perforated stencils and still later, hand carved wooden blocks used for patterns.

In the Masulipatinam tradition, the outlines and main features of all the designs are printed with hand-carved blocks and only the details are painted by hand. Old traditional blocks, many with Persian motifs, have been used for many years.

The dyes used in Kalamkari are colors extracted from plants, roots, leaves and similar vegetable matter, combined with minerals like iron, and mordants like alum. These colors are fast, but are not harsh and gaudy, and they acquire a certain clarity wash by wash. Harsh chemicals are never used, and the traditional methods followed for bleaching and printing impart a mellow beauty and durability to the fabric which is characteristic of Kalamkari.

Kalamkari work is a time-consuming process, involving as many as fifteen steps. This includes bleaching, the application of myrobalam, painting and printing, washing, dyeing, bleaching, starching, waxing, indigo vat dyeing, wax removing, bleaching, starching, the application of yellow and green colors, the application of alum and bleaching. Sunlight is the main bleaching agent. Not being photo-sensitive like chemical dyes, vegetable dye printed fabrics do not fade in unsightly patches, even with repeated washing and exposure to sunlight.

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