Specialties of the
Kanchipuram Weaving Tradition
While Tamil Nadu has a number of weaving
traditions, and a history of handloom
weaving dating back to the Sangam period,
the weaving centre produces those of the
Kanchipuram tradition. These silk saris
require intricate weaving methods and a
large investment of time by weavers. A
complex weaving technique known as 'korvai'
is used to interlace the borders with the
body of the sari. The contrasting colors of
the borders in the weaving of the weft are
interlinked with the body of the weft with
each throw of the shuttle. Two weavers are
required, one to operate the threads for the
central portion and another to operate the
border colors. Since borders often appear on
both sides of the saris, each Kanchipuram
sari requires three shuttles. The elaborate
pallus are also linked to the main body of
the sari using a special interlinking weave
known as 'pitni.' In the hands of the skilled
craftsman, this join looks like one
continuous weave. This tradition of saris is
also distinguished by its motifs, often
inspired by the beautiful carvings found in
the temples of Kanchipuram.
Capacity of the Centre
The Weaving Centre produces hand spun
silk, silk-cotton, and cotton saris, dance
dhavanis, duppatas, and dress materials. |
Documentation
Saris woven in the CERC are based on
traditional designs. The original designs were
inspired by heirloom saris collected from
Rukmini Devi's friends and associates in
Chennai, and from saris used to decorate
temple idols. Rukmini Devi herself chose the
original motifs and innovative color
combinations. Old names for designs were
found, and traditional colors were revived. The
'Kalakshetra Sari' has a distinct look, one that
is widely admired.
An extensive catalogue of sari designs exist
at the Centre. Saris from Rukmini Devi's
personal collection and from old customers of
the Centre have been photographed and
designs have been put on computerized graph
sheets for reproduction on looms. 50 exclusive
designs have been licensed to the Tamil Nadu
Handlooms Directorate and are marketed as
"Kalakshetra Saris".
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